Knowledge Hub

There are two ways. If your SmartKnob is connected to a Wi-Fi network with internet access, it checks for new versions by itself, provided “Online updates” is switched on in the settings. When something new is available, it lets you know, and nothing is installed until you agree. Without internet, you simply install the update from a file. So the choice is yours.

Yes. Download the update file beforehand from our [Firmware & Updates](/pages/firmware) page, for example onto your phone. Then open “Connections” and “Modules” in the dashboard, tap “Update” next to the device and select the .jarvis file.

Yes. Every module has its own update file. In the dashboard under “Connections” and “Modules”, tap “Update” next to the module and select the matching file. The module then restarts by itself. Here too, nothing happens without your go-ahead.

No, never. If the power fails during an update or the transfer is interrupted, your device simply carries on with the previous version. After an update, the SmartKnob and modules check the newly installed firmware when they restart. If the new version does not start properly, for example because of a faulty file, the device automatically goes back to the previous working version and lets you know in the dashboard. So the SmartKnob and modules always stay safe and reachable. You will never be left with a dead device.

No. Before installing, every device checks that the update really comes from Camper Jarvis and has not been altered. Third-party or modified files are rejected.

Very secure, built on the same standard that protects your online banking and messengers such as Signal. The connection between the SmartKnob and the modules is encrypted end to end, using exactly the recognised methods that secure websites, banking and encrypted chats worldwide (AES, Curve25519, SHA-256). Imagine your SmartKnob and each module speaking a secret language that only the two of them know. That language is different for every pair, because they agree on their own unique key when they are paired. There is no master key. Even someone recording the radio signals only sees unreadable gibberish. They cannot change or inject anything either, because every message is also checked for authenticity. In short: your commands and readings stay your business.

Nothing, the systems do not get in each other's way. Every module is firmly paired with its own SmartKnob and talks only to it, over its own uniquely encrypted channel. Your neighbour's SmartKnob can neither see nor control your modules, and yours cannot see or control theirs, even when you are parked bumper to bumper. Nobody can listen in on the other either, because every connection has its own key. You do share the 2.4GHz radio band, just like two Wi-Fi networks next to each other. But because the modules adjust their transmit power automatically and each module talks directly to its own SmartKnob only, the systems do not interfere in everyday use. Your camper stays yours.

Only ever as strongly as they need to at that moment, which is usually surprisingly little. Every module turns its transmit power down by itself, to the minimum it needs to reach the SmartKnob reliably. If it sits close by, it barely whispers. Only when there is more distance or metal in the way does it turn up as far as necessary. So full power is only used when it is really needed. In the small space where you live and sleep, that is worth a lot: radio exposure automatically stays as low as possible, without you having to set anything. It does not cost you any range. The signal easily carries through the whole van, even when a module is tucked behind a panel, under the bench seat or in the rear storage. And because the modules use their own separate radio link, they do not get in the way of your normal camper Wi-Fi. Your router and hotspot stay undisturbed.

Every Camper Jarvis device detects technical irregularities by itself, such as voltage dips, tripped fuses or excessive temperature, and remembers them even across a power cut. If something ever goes wrong, your dealer or our support can see the cause straight away, without you having to reproduce the fault.

Often not. Many causes, such as a weak battery, a loose contact or an overloaded cable, can be identified remotely thanks to the self-diagnosis. Your dealer, your workshop or our support know how to read it out.

No. The pluggable spring terminal connectors (2- and 3-pin) and the channel terminals on Ampy take bare stranded wire. A ferrule can damage the connector.

No. The self-diagnosis only knows technical values from the devices, no personal data: no location, no Wi-Fi names, nothing about how or when you use your vehicle. If you switch on “Improve Camper Jarvis” in the settings, these technical values reach us in a GDPR-compliant way whenever there is an internet connection. Without that tick, they stay in the vehicle.

Pairing practically takes care of itself. You start it on the SmartKnob or in the dashboard and then power up the module. An LED and a sound on the SmartKnob confirm that the connection is up. That is all there is to it: no cable to the SmartKnob, no configuration, no searching for networks. The only thing that matters is that your SmartKnob is already running, because the modules always connect to it. With Lighty: right after pairing, its wall push buttons stop responding. Create a light widget for each light in the dashboard and switch on "Push button" in it, then they switch again.

Yes, up to 20 modules at the same time, in any combination. That is enough for almost any camper conversion, from a compact panel van to a fully equipped motorhome. If you want to add several modules one after the other, the SmartKnob stays ready to receive for a short while after each successful pairing. You simply power up the next module.

The two modes only decide which Wi-Fi network you use to open your dashboard on your phone or tablet. They have no effect on your modules. • AP mode: the SmartKnob opens its own Wi-Fi network and you connect your phone or tablet directly to it. You need no router and no internet, ideal when you are parked off-grid. • STA mode: the SmartKnob joins your existing Wi-Fi network, for example your camper router or your phone's hotspot. That is handy if you want internet access at the same time, for instance for online updates. You can switch between the two at any time.

You are still never locked out. If the SmartKnob loses the connection to your Wi-Fi network, because the router is off, you have moved to another pitch or you are simply out of range, it automatically opens its own Wi-Fi network again. You can then reach the dashboard directly through it straight away. As soon as your usual network is back, it reconnects to it by itself. You do not have to do a thing.

Ampy and Lighty keep their settings and carry on working. You simply keep switching and dimming lights and appliances at the wall switch, fuses and voltage protection stay active, and the outputs stay as they are. The display, dashboard, scenes, automations, the double tap for all lights and the wireless push buttons pause. This is a fallback, not a permanent state: without the SmartKnob you cannot change settings such as fuse values, and dimming only works with push buttons, not with switches. The one exception: an Ampy output set up as a heating element switches itself off after 10 minutes for safety, so that no boiler keeps heating unattended. We are also working on a backup function where a module takes over the dashboard, so that the whole system can still be operated from your phone and tablet.

The wall surface under the mounting plate must be flat: no more than 0.5mm of unevenness across the whole area of the mounting plate. If the wall is bent, curved or warped, the SmartKnob will not click in cleanly. Check the surface with a straight edge before screwing the plate on. Double-sided tape on the back of the mounting plate gives extra hold.

Volty Pro brings your whole energy system together in one place. It reads battery monitors, solar charge controllers, inverters, chargers, inverter/chargers, DC-DC chargers (battery-to-battery chargers) and smart BMS (the protection electronics in your lithium battery). It connects through each manufacturer's data ports: • Victron via VE.Direct, VE.Bus and CAN • Ective via CAN • EcoFlow • Votronic via LIN • CAN and UART BMS such as Daly, JK or JBD Instead of a separate app or display for every device, you see state of charge, solar yield and consumption together on the SmartKnob and in the dashboard, even with a mix of many manufacturers. So you can pick the best from each manufacturer and still have everything in one place.

No, Volty Pro comes with a ready-made cable set for all data ports, included in the box. You do not need to buy anything separately. Only where a manufacturer such as Victron or Votronic specifies its own original communication cable do you use that one, because it is part of the connection the manufacturer has specified.

Yes, the second voltage input (Battery 2) lets you keep an eye on an additional leisure battery. Important: this input is intended exclusively for additional leisure or house batteries, not for the starter battery or the vehicle's primary electrical system. That is outside the product specification.

Yes, if your inverter has a remote on/off connection or switching on and off is built into its data interface, as with the Victron MultiPlus or the Ective CSI Pro, for example. Volty Pro has a 2-pin remote output for this. It lets you switch the inverter on and off directly from the dashboard or the SmartKnob, without getting up.

With the EcoFlow integration, Volty detects shore power via the EcoFlow, so you do not need Switchy for that. Two things only Switchy can do: detect whether L and N are swapped or the protective earth (PE) is missing, and switch 230V loads such as a heating element on their own channels with 10A each. Volty only detects shore power.

This one is worth a closer look. VE.Bus is the data connection that Victron inverters and inverter/chargers use to talk to each other and to Victron accessories. Victron officially approves direct VE.Bus connections only for its own interfaces, so a third-party connection such as Volty Pro has no approval from Victron. We deliberately designed Volty so that nothing should go wrong. Even so, you use the VE.Bus port at your own risk.

Both. Ampy detects the vehicle's electrical system automatically, so there is nothing to change.

The supply goes onto two M6 threaded studs, the loads into lever terminals for up to 4mm²: open, insert, close, no tools needed. The push button wires go into removable spring terminals.

24A continuously, up to 32A for short periods, and 120A across all six outputs combined. So even a compressor fridge, an inverter and a parking heater fit on a single output.

Not for the loads connected to Ampy. Every output has an electronic fuse that you adjust instead of replacing.

The output switches off and you see it in the dashboard, including the reason. Resetting takes a single tap. If the fuse trips several times in a row, Ampy enforces a short pause so that a genuine fault is not simply glossed over.

The characteristic determines how quickly the fuse cuts out when the current is too high. As a rule of thumb: slow for anything that briefly draws more when it switches on, fast for pure electronics, normal for everything in between. • Choose slow for motors and compressors: water pump, fridge, fan, awning, pop-top roof, inverter. These loads draw several times their continuous current at the moment they switch on, which is completely normal. A fast fuse would trip every time, even though nothing is wrong. • Choose fast for loads without inrush current, such as LED strips, sensors, control units or charging sockets. Here a sudden rise in current is almost always a fault, and then it should cut out quickly. • Normal is the safe choice if you are unsure. A practical tip: if the fuse only trips at switch-on while the continuous current is fine, set it one step slower. Raising the fuse rating instead would be the wrong approach, because the rating still has to match the cable cross-section.

They switch an output off when the system voltage drops below a set limit (undervoltage protection, UVP) or rises above one (overvoltage protection, OVP). You set both limits for each load. • Undervoltage protection stops the battery from being drained too far (deep discharge) and protects your devices from overheating at too low a voltage. Motors and compressors actually draw more current when the voltage drops. • Overvoltage protection keeps voltage spikes away from sensitive electronics, for example during an equalisation charge or if the alternator develops a fault. Because you set the limits per load, you can switch things off in stages: the inverter and outside light go first, the heating and interior lights stay on the longest. With lithium batteries, set the lower limit so that it kicks in before the battery's own protection electronics (the battery management system, BMS) shut down. Otherwise everything suddenly goes dark.

Yes. Voltage, current and power are measured and displayed for each output.

Yes, any output up to 5A. For coloured ambient lighting with RGBWW, Lighty is the right choice.

Yes. Two outputs form a direction pair, and Ampy makes sure the two directions are never active at the same time. A set run time or limit switches stop the movement automatically.

Yes. A push button or wall switch can be connected to every output, and on the SmartKnob you can do everything without a phone too.

Yes. In the dashboard, link the pump to the radar widget under Functions. It then switches on as soon as someone is in the vehicle and off again after you leave, with an adjustable delay.

At any time. Fuse rating, tripping behaviour, voltage limits, name, icon and push button mode can all be changed in the interface, without tools.

If only Ampy loses power, it restores the last state of its channels by itself once power is back. Devices that were running before, such as a heater or a fridge, start again. All settings are retained. A heating element controlled by the Boiler widget is restored the same way. Exception: if Ampy had already switched it off and locked it because the SmartKnob stopped responding, it stays off until you deliberately reset the fuse.

It switches itself off after 10 minutes and stays off until you deliberately reset the fuse in the dashboard. That is because the boiler control, meaning the cut-off temperature and dry-run protection, runs on the SmartKnob. This way your boiler never heats unattended. All other loads on Ampy carry on running as normal.

Lighty controls all the lighting in your camper over 5 independent channels. Everything is possible, from a single white strip to full RGBWW lighting with colour plus warm and cool white. Or you connect up to five individual lights, such as kitchen, bathroom, bed left, bed right and outdoor light, each on its own. You set colour, colour temperature, brightness and entire light scenes just as you like.

Yes, both without any changes. Lighty works in the range from 9 to 36V, so it is just as much at home in a 12V panel van as in a 24V motorhome.

Not necessarily. From firmware 0.4.7, a new Lighty responds to its push buttons straight away, without any setup. With Lighty Extension, each of the five push buttons switches its own channel. A short press switches, press and hold dims. With just one push button and no Lighty Extension, you switch channel 2. Even if your SmartKnob ever fails, your push buttons keep switching and dimming. The SmartKnob adds colours, white light (warm white and cool white as one light), scenes, the dashboard, automations, the wireless push buttons and the double tap for all lights.

Connection is deliberately kept simple: power and light channels go into high-quality Phoenix lever terminals, almost tool-free, safe and reusable. You wire the push button to the supplied pluggable spring terminal connector and then simply plug it in. In the box you will find Lighty, four mounting screws and the pluggable spring terminal connector for the push button.

Lighty controls single-colour and multi-colour LED strips with shared colour channels, meaning normal single-colour strips as well as RGB, RGBW and RGBWW strips. Addressable pixel strips (such as WS2812), where every LED is controlled individually, are deliberately not supported. Lighty is not designed for them.

What counts is not the length but the current: Lighty handles 20A in total. For example, a COB strip with 14W per metre draws about 1.2A per metre at 12V. Two strips of 3m each come to roughly 7A and fit easily. Several strips may also share one channel.

Any way you like: at the wall switch, on the SmartKnob or in the dashboard, all equal and in sync. • A press switches on and off. • Holding dims smoothly up and down. • A double tap switches off all lights in the vehicle. That is your goodnight switch without any extra wiring; the SmartKnob needs to be running for it. You can call up your light scenes from anywhere with a single tap, no app needed. On the SmartKnob, press in the main menu and the quick access to your scenes opens.

Yes, wherever you only want to switch on and off, a normal switch is perfectly fine. You only need a push button where you want to dim directly at the wall, because dimming works by holding the button. One thing to note: a switch goes directly on the push button input of Lighty, without Lighty Extension. As soon as you use Lighty Extension, only push buttons work. The Extension recognises the buttons via a resistor ladder, and a closed switch would block it. A mix of switches and Lighty Extension is therefore not possible.

Yes. Lighty has one input for a push button. With Lighty Extension you can connect up to five push buttons, one for each light. Only push buttons go on Lighty Extension, no switches. Without a SmartKnob, push button 1 switches channel 1, push button 2 channel 2 and so on. With the SmartKnob, you decide in the dashboard which push button switches which light. Then you can also use several push buttons for one light and do not need two-way switching.

Lighty and Lighty Extension are both marked IN and GND. Connect IN to IN and GND to GND. The Extension then has the inputs 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and GND. Each push button has two connections: one goes to an input, the other to ground, in other words negative (GND). For ground you can use GND on the Extension or any ground near the push button. Then one cable from the Extension to the push button is enough. You will find a picture of this in the article "More push buttons with Lighty Extension".

A completely normal push button: single pole, normally open, without a latching position. Brand and design are up to you, we do not sell push buttons ourselves. Only push buttons go on Lighty Extension, no switches. The Extension works with a resistor ladder: Lighty measures the voltage between 0 and 3.3V and recognises which push button is pressed. A switch stays closed and blocks this measurement. Multi-gang push buttons with a common connection also work: the common connection goes to GND on Lighty Extension, the individual buttons to inputs 1 to 4. You can connect as many push buttons in parallel per channel as you like, for example one at the door and one by the bed. You can take ground right at the push button. You will find the wiring diagrams in [Connecting Lighty](/blogs/wissen/lighty-anschliessen).

Yes, together with the SmartKnob. Lighty receives battery-powered wireless push buttons from Häfele Connect Mesh. At the moment that is the Häfele Connect Mesh 4-way wall switch (item no. 850.00.141), from Lighty firmware 0.4.7. You can get it from Häfele specialist dealers. Next, we are adding the 4-way push buttons from Shelly. You mount the push buttons wherever you like and pair them in the dashboard in around 20 seconds. A short press switches, a long press dims. You can also assign a button to any other device, such as the water pump or the inverter. Important: the wireless push buttons only work while the SmartKnob is present. Your wired wall switches keep working without it.

Yes. If five channels are not enough, you add a second Lighty, each with its own channels and its own push buttons. In the dashboard and on the SmartKnob, every light still appears as its own tile.

Lighty dims smoothly from 0.1 to 100%, colour-true all the way down. Most dimmers give up at around 20%; below that the light flickers or jumps to off. With Lighty it stays even. That makes a real night light, a subtle evening mood and even a sunrise simulation possible, where the light gently brightens over several minutes. Lighty works completely silently and flicker-free, even with cameras up to 240fps. There is no whining, even at low brightness, and no stripes in photos or videos.

No. Lighty works at 19.5kHz, above what humans can hear, so there is no whining, even at low brightness. For pets there is practically no audible noise. The channels switch with a time offset, so not all at the same moment. That puts a much more even load on your vehicle's electrical system. On top of that, Lighty spreads its switching frequency slightly over a narrow range. This reduces electromagnetic interference in the vehicle, for example in radio reception.

Lighty protects itself and your wiring out of the box. Built in are: • an electronic fuse with current measurement • protection against overtemperature, overvoltage and undervoltage • reverse polarity protection, in case plus and minus are ever swapped • a surge arrester that catches short voltage spikes All of it is adjustable. In total, Lighty switches up to 20A of combined load. And because Lighty measures consumption, the dashboard even shows you what each individual light draws, without any additional sensors.

Yes. All settings stay stored in the device, even if you disconnect the power. When the power is back, the lights are off at first. When you switch on, every light comes back with the brightness and colour last stored via the SmartKnob. On a new Lighty, that is 100%. Lighty does not remember a brightness you only dimmed at the push button.

Heaty controls your existing parking heater directly, currently the Autoterm 2D and 4D, Timberline 1.0 and 2.0, the Webasto Air Top and the Eberspächer Airtronic S2 and S3. Heaty connects directly to the heater with the matching wiring harness, which is included. More Eberspächer heaters and air conditioners as well as Alde and Truma will follow. Instead of fiddling with your heater's small original control panel, you simply set temperature, timer and operating mode on the SmartKnob or in the dashboard. One control for everything in the van, without a brand-specific display or app.

Yes. Heaty is a module and connects to the SmartKnob, which is the hub of the system. Without a SmartKnob there is no user interface and there are no automations. If you already have one in your vehicle, you simply pair Heaty with it.

One Heaty controls exactly one heater. If you have two separate parking heaters in your vehicle, each gets its own Heaty. In return, each one stays individually and cleanly controllable via the SmartKnob and fits perfectly into scenes and automations.

Everything you need to connect it: the Heaty module, the wiring harness for exactly the heater you select when ordering, and four mounting screws. Because the cable already fits your heater, installation is genuinely plug-and-play: no tinkering, no hunting for adapters.

Usually not. The supplied wiring harness is designed so that Heaty gets its power directly from the heater. That saves you extra cables and valuable build time. The exception is the Timberline: there, Heaty needs its own additional 12V supply. Just plug it in: as soon as Heaty is supplied with power, it actively starts looking for a SmartKnob in pairing mode.

Yes. Heaty works in the range from 9 to 36V, so it fits both 12V and 24V systems. It takes its power directly from the heater via the supplied wiring harness anyway.

0.3W in operation. For a module measuring 88x65x18mm, that makes no noticeable difference to the vehicle's total consumption, even over several days parked up.

Everything you would otherwise do on your heater's control panel, only more conveniently. You set the target temperature, choose timer and operating mode and see the current status in real time, directly on the SmartKnob or in the dashboard. The real benefit comes with automations: Heaty can be linked to your scenes and schedules, so that the heater, for example, warms up the van in the morning before you get up.

You decide. When you create the widget, you choose which temperature sensor is used, for example the SmartKnob's internal sensor in the living area instead of a sensor on the heater. That way the temperature is based on where you actually spend your time.

Activate the heater with the toggle button at the top and set Heating and Ventilation at the bottom to OFF. The Timberline then heats only the water.

The Eberspächer Airtronic S2 and S3 already work and are available. The other Eberspächer heaters and the Eberspächer air conditioners will follow from November 2026. Truma and Alde will come after that; there are no fixed dates for them yet.

Up to eight devices from one place: • 4 channels for 12V and 24V, each up to 30A, for example a pump, a fan or a lift bed • 4 channels for 230V, each up to 10A or 2300W, for example a boiler or sockets Appliances that draw much more, such as an air conditioner, a tumble dryer or an induction hob, do not belong behind Switchy. They get their own circuit breaker in the 230V distribution. More on this in [Switching loads with Switchy](/blogs/wissen/verbraucher-ueber-switchy-schalten).

No, Switchy has no push button inputs. You switch its channels on the SmartKnob or in the dashboard, also on a schedule or as part of a scene. If you also want to switch a device at the wall, connect it to Ampy or Lighty instead. There you can connect a push button to every output.

No. Switchy switches, it does not measure. Ampy measures what each individual device draws, output by output. Battery and system data come from Volty. All three work together in the same dashboard.

Switchy has no fuses of its own for the connected devices; they belong in the installation: • 12V and 24V: each channel gets its own fuse in the positive cable, no more than 30cm from the battery's positive terminal. • 230V: a 30mA residual current device and a B10 circuit breaker sit in front of Switchy. Only a qualified electrician may carry out the 230V installation. Why it has to be a B10 is explained in [Why a B10 circuit breaker is needed at 230V](/blogs/wissen/warum-lss-b10).

Switchy checks the shore power continuously and shows you on the SmartKnob and in the dashboard whether everything is in order. • If the earth is missing, Switchy switches off all four 230V channels within milliseconds and the SmartKnob raises an alarm. Once the earth is back, you switch your devices back on yourself. That way nothing starts up unattended. • If live and neutral are swapped, it is almost always down to a Schuko plug or adapter. Pull the plug, turn it by 180 degrees and plug it back in. All the details in [What the AC input monitoring does](/blogs/wissen/was-die-ac-eingangsueberwachung-macht).

Yes. Switchy detects whether shore power is present, and you can use that as a trigger in the dashboard. For example, the boiler switches on as soon as you plug in at the campsite and off again when you unplug.

Yes, with a 12V, 24V or 230V motor. Switchy electronically prevents both directions from being driven at the same time. For this, Switchy has 2 inputs for limit switches, usually magnetic reed contacts. When the mechanism reaches its end position at the top or bottom, Switchy switches off the corresponding 12V or 24V channel. You set in the dashboard whether you use a normally open or normally closed contact. How to connect the switches is explained in [Connecting limit switches](/blogs/wissen/endlagenschalter-anschliessen).

Yes. Switchy runs on a supply from 9 to 36V, so it fits both 12V and 24V systems.

Very little. 0.71W in normal operation, that is 56mA at 12.7V. Even with all relays pulled in, it is only 2.26W. That is because Switchy pulls in each relay with full current and then holds it with a much smaller holding current.

Switchy, 4 mounting screws and 3 two-pole pluggable spring terminal connectors: one for the power supply and two for the limit switch inputs. Every wire goes into tool-free spring terminals, no crimping needed.

Fluidy Pro keeps an eye on all the water in your camper: • levels of up to 4 tanks, for example fresh, grey and black water • up to 5 temperatures, for example at the boiler, in the heating circuit or at the fresh water tank • the pressure in the water line • leaks via the leak cable For smaller builds there is Fluidy, more compact and more affordable. Both fit into the same system. More on this in [Tank levels, temperatures, pressure: what Fluidy Pro measures](/blogs/wissen/tankfuellstaende-temperaturen-druck-was-fluidy-pro-misst).

No, Fluidy deliberately comes without sensors, so you only pay for what you really need. Level sensors, temperature sensors, the water pressure sensor and the leak cable are available from us individually. The matching connectors come with each sensor.

Typically to within 1%, relative to the full measuring range. The sensor hangs in the tank and measures how strongly the water presses on it at the bottom. That tells you how full the tank is. Floats or three-stage probes, by contrast, usually only tell you that things will get tight at some point. The calibration in the dashboard guides you step by step, no maths needed.

Yes. At the very bottom of the tank settings you export the calibration. If you ever delete the tank widget or create it again, you load it back in completely via "Load profile". Best to back it up right after calibrating. Converters use the same calibration for the next vehicle this way.

Installation is the same for fresh, grey and black water tanks. The sensor also measures perfectly in stainless steel tanks, because it hangs inside the tank and does not have to measure through the tank wall. You need a 17mm hole at the top or side of the tank, close to an inspection opening. The watertight cable gland is included. Step by step in [Installing the water level sensor](/blogs/wissen/wasserstandssensor-einbauen).

Level sensors and the water pressure sensor must be completely free of water whenever there is a risk of frost. If water freezes inside a sensor, it is permanently damaged. So when you winterise, drain the tanks and empty the fresh water system, ideally draining the pressure sensor via the drain tap.

Yes, they can be connected, but we have not tested this. The two contacts of the cable go to + and S on the leak port, polarity does not matter. Our own leak cable is tested for durability and detection. With third-party cables we do not know the coating or construction, so we cannot guarantee that a leak will be detected reliably, now or in a few years.

With a 3m leak cable that you lay flat wherever a leak would show up first: under the pump and boiler, along the water installation, at the water filter. As soon as the cable gets wet anywhere, the SmartKnob raises an alarm. With the leak widget, the water pump switches off as well when the alarm goes off. To cover more area, simply connect several leak cables in parallel to the leak port. More on this in [Detecting water leaks: how the leak cable works](/blogs/wissen/erkennung-von-wasser-leckagen-so-funktioniert-das-leckagekabel).

Yes. Join the cables in parallel, for example with WAGO terminals, and run them to Fluidy with a two-core cable.

Yes, they work together with our sensors on Fluidy. Run a short cable from the connector to a distribution point near the sensors and branch off from there. Fluidy recognises each sensor individually, and you name them under Settings, Sensors. By the way, our own sensors are not DS18B20 but a further development that measures faster and more accurately, with cable and insulation made of food-safe silicone.

Up to 5. They all share one common line, which may be no longer than 3m in total. The sensors measure to within 0.5°C and have a food-safe silicone cable. Tip: run a short cable from the connector to a small terminal block near the sensors and branch out from there. That is more reliable than clamping all the cables directly into the connector. More on this in [Installing temperature sensors](/blogs/wissen/temperatursensoren-einbauen).

It sits in the line behind the fresh water pump and shows you whether the pump is running. Above all, it notices when the pressure keeps dropping, for example because a fitting is leaking and the pump keeps starting. That way a creeping leak is spotted before anything gets wet. How to install it is explained in [Installing the water pressure sensor and leak cable](/blogs/wissen/wasserdrucksensor-und-leckagekabel-einbauen).

Together with the boiler widget, you control your hot water based on the temperature actually inside the tank. And when the fresh water tank runs low, the widget blocks the heating elements so that the boiler never heats dry.

There are two ways: put the sensor into an existing blind hole in the boiler, or tap the temperature at the safety valve with a T-piece and an immersion sleeve. Thermal paste improves the heat transfer from the boiler to the sensor. Good to know: the sensor does not measure directly in the water. The water in the boiler can be hotter than the reading and can also reach its temperature sooner. A fill level sensor does not fit in a boiler. It is a closed pressure vessel and always full during operation.

Yes. You set the thresholds, for example fresh water below 20% or grey water above 80%. The SmartKnob lets you know in good time so you can plan your next fill-up and emptying.

Roof air conditioners with a data connection, for example the Dometic FreshJet, and fridges from Dometic, Thetford and Vitrifrigo. We work out which adapter cable fits your device with you when you send your enquiry. If your device is not supported yet, just ask us, we keep adding more brands.

For the air conditioner, target temperature and operating mode, and you can always see what the unit is doing. For the fridge, you switch it on and off and get faults in plain language instead of blink codes. Manufacturers do not transmit the actual temperature inside the fridge via the CI bus. Thermy can only set the fridge temperature once the actual temperature is known, which takes a RuuviTag wireless sensor in the fridge. Support for RuuviTag is coming soon. Then Thermy can also reduce cooling at night so that the compressor starts less often. Everything on the SmartKnob or in the dashboard, no extra remote control needed.

No. Thermy plugs straight into your device with a matching adapter cable and gets its power from there too. Then you pair Thermy with the SmartKnob and you are done.

Yes. Thermy is a module and connects wirelessly and encrypted to the SmartKnob, the hub of the system. That is where, along with the dashboard, you operate your air conditioner and fridge.

Yes. You link Thermy to scenes and schedules, for example pre-cooling in the afternoon and switching to quiet night mode at bedtime. You can still control everything by hand at any time.

Yes. When the battery is full and the sun keeps shining, the fridge uses the surplus to pre-cool a little further. That saves power in the evening and keeps the compressor quiet for longer. For this you need Volty for the battery data, the Solar Plus add-on licence and a RuuviTag in the fridge.

Thermy takes care of the air conditioner and fridge, Heaty of the parking heater. Technically, both are built on the same module. On the SmartKnob and in the dashboard, everything ends up together in one place.